Markazi Osh is a plov house for those who appreciate a place that does one thing and does it exceptionally well. Several varieties of oshi palov are on offer, the interior is dressed in traditional Tajik style — atlas silk, chakans and embroidery — the staff are warm and attentive, and the prices are more than reasonable. Tajik plov was inscribed on UNESCO's Representative List in 2016, and this is exactly the kind of place where it is prepared the way it always has been. Insider tip: arrive when the kazan opens — fresh plov straight from the pot is worth every minute of the wait.